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I have looked forward to these holidays for quite some time, now they have been and are almost gone.

There is something about the North Western Highlands of Scotland that keeps people coming back. It may be the rugged beauty, the impressive coastal scenery or lonely sandy beaches, who knows, but in spite of the unpredictable weather and regular midgie attacks, the people keep on coming, not just from other parts of Scotland, but from all over the world. I can’t say I blame them.

The first night of our holiday was spent on the campsite at Gruinard Bay. Gruinard Bay is a beautiful little bay in northwestern Ross and Cromarty. Just off the shore is Gruinard Island – the infamous site where anthrax tests were conducted by British military scientists in 1942. The island remained a no-go area for 48 years until it was decontaminated in 1990. I was surprised by the proximity of the island to the land (0.68 miles) when you consider what they were doing there.

After a few drinks that evening and a nice chat with a retired gent who was walking the entire coast of the United Kingdom we woke up to a beautiful morning with the sun beaming down on Gruinard Bay.

After a wander along the beach we packed up and headed for Mellon Udrigle. Mellon Udrigle is a small fishing/crofting hamlet also in northwestern Ross and Cromarty. It has the most amazing little sandy beach flanked with some really impressive rocks. We had a lovely walk up to the viewpoint.

From Mellon Udrigle we headed for Ullapool. A favourite place of ours, in no small part due to the amazing Seaforth Bar! They serve a good selection of fine ales and the most amazing fresh seafood meals.

On the first evening in Ullapool we took a run up to Rhue Lighthouse, where I took some photos. We were also lucky enough to spot a pod of dolphins heading round the headland. An impressive sight!

On our second day staying in Ullapool we visited the ‘Bone Caves’ at Inchnadamph. The ‘Bone Caves’ of Inchnadamph were found to contain the bones of several amazing animals: Eurasian Lynx, Brown Bear, Arctic Fox, Reindeer and wait for it… Polar Bears! Human skeletons were also found there dating back to approximately the 3rd millennium BC.

The walk up there was very dramatic looking. You pass a lovely little waterfall early on the track, and as you carry on the mountain scenery becomes quite impressive. You cross a dried up river on the approach to Craeg nan Uamh and the caves. On the way up I couldn’t believe it when I saw a “Falling Rocks” warning sign stuck in the rocky ground! Seriously, if you didn’t think about the potential risk of rocks occassionally rolling down from Craeg nan Uamh you shouldn’t be there in the first place!

The bone caves themselves are quite vast, and the view from inside looking out on to the rock face opposite is really quite something. The track was a bit slippy in the dreich weather, so some care was required when descending back down to the path to finish the circuit, maybe there should have been a “Slippery Suface” warning sign there, too.

That evening we met up again with our friend who was doing the coastal walk around the UK, and then went for our second meal at The Seaforth Bar – lovely!

Our plans were to go to Achmelvich for an evening, then return home on the Friday morning, but the weather deteriorated massively as we drove through Assynt. We stopped the Fisherman’s Mission at Lochinver for some lunch, and then headed home along the beautiful north coast of Sutherland. The drive around Loch Eriboll is long, but always beautiful – even in the sheets of rain coming down.

We arrived home in Wick just before dinner time, unpacked the car, had a beer and then an early night in a comfortable bed. Nothing beats the first night back in your own bed after sleeping in a tent!

Roll on August and our next holidays!